how-to-reset-refrigerator-not-cooling

# How to Reset a Refrigerator That Is Not Cooling: Step-by-Step

A refrigerator that stops cooling often needs a simple reset before you call a repair tech. Most modern refrigerators have a control board that can freeze up after a power surge, a tripped breaker, or even a long door-open event. Here’s how to force a reset and get that compressor running again.

## Quick Checks Before You Reset

Run through these five checks first—they’ll save you time and often fix the problem without any reset at all.

– **Power at the outlet.** Plug a lamp or phone charger into the same wall outlet. If it doesn’t light up, check your breaker panel and reset the tripped breaker. If it trips again within minutes, call an electrician.
– **Temperature settings.** Make sure the fridge and freezer dials weren’t accidentally bumped. Set fridge to 37–40°F and freezer to 0°F. Wait 2–3 hours to see if temps stabilize.
– **Door seals.** Close the door on a dollar bill. If you can pull it out without resistance, the gasket isn’t sealing. Warm air leaking in makes the compressor run harder and can trigger lockout modes.
– **Freezer fan operation.** Open the freezer door and press the door switch (usually a plunger that clicks when pressed). You should hear the evaporator fan running. No fan sound means the coil can ice up fast.
– **Condenser coils.** Slide the fridge out and vacuum the coils on the back or underneath. Heavy dust buildup makes the compressor overheat and can cause it to shut down on a thermal overload.

If all those check out and the fridge still isn’t cooling, move to the full reset sequence.

## The Full Refrigerator Reset Sequence

This is the factory-recommended reset for most brands, including Whirlpool, Maytag, GE, and Samsung. It forces the control board to reboot and clears temporary fault codes.

**Step 1: Unplug the refrigerator.** Don’t just flip the breaker off—unplug it from the wall. This ensures the control board fully discharges. If the fridge is built-in and hardwired, turn off the dedicated breaker and wait 30 seconds.

**Step 2: Wait 10–15 minutes.** This isn’t random. The compressor has a built-in thermal overload protector that needs time to cool down. If you plug it back in after only 60 seconds, the compressor may refuse to start. Fifteen minutes guarantees the overload resets.

**Step 3: Plug it back in.** For models with a control panel on the door, you may see a brief start-up sequence of lights. The compressor should kick on within 30–60 seconds. You’ll hear a low hum or click. If the compressor doesn’t start within 2–3 minutes, proceed to the forced reset method below.

**Step 4: Verify it worked.** After plugging back in, place your hand near the freezer vent in the fridge compartment. You should feel cool air within 4–6 hours. Listen for the evaporator fan running. If the fridge feels room-temperature after 6 hours, something else is wrong.

**Step 5: Adjust settings and wait 24 hours.** Set fridge and freezer to recommended temps. Close both doors. Check internal temperature after 4–6 hours for noticeable cooling, but give the full 24 hours for it to reach steady state.

## When the Simple Unplug Doesn’t Work

Some refrigerators need a control-board reset that the unplug method doesn’t always trigger. This is common on newer models with digital displays and inverter compressors.

### Forced Control Board Reset (Touchpad Models)

On refrigerators with a front-mounted display (Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana):
1. Unplug the fridge or trip the breaker.
2. Wait 10 minutes.
3. While still unplugged, press and hold the **Freezer** and **Fridge** temp buttons (or the **Power Cool** and **Power Freeze** buttons) for 5 seconds. This drains residual capacitor charge.
4. Plug the fridge back in. The display should flash briefly and then show normal temps.

### Compressor Relay Reset

If the compressor is warm to the touch but not running, the start relay may have failed. This requires pulling the access panel at the back bottom of the fridge (usually a black or dark gray rectangular plate). Inside you’ll find a small black or white plastic relay clipped onto the compressor pins.

| Failure Mode | Symptoms | Quick Check |
|—|—|—|
| Start relay failed | Compressor warm but silent, no hum | Shake the relay—rattling sound indicates broken contacts |
| Overload protector tripped | Compressor hot to touch, fridge blows warm air | Wait 60 minutes with fridge unplugged, then test again |
| Control board fault | No display, no compressor, no fans | Check for burned smell or swollen capacitors on the board |

A bad start relay is a $10–20 part that can be replaced with a screwdriver. This is a common DIY fix, but if you’re unsure, see our [diy guide on how to fix a refrigerator that wont cool](https://homeappliancefixing.com/diy-guide-on-how-to-fix-a-refrigerator-that-wont-cool/) for step-by-step relay replacement photos.

### What a Successful Reset Looks Like

> “After a reset, you should hear the compressor hum within 2 minutes. If the evaporator fan starts and cold air reaches the fridge section within 4–6 hours, the reset was successful.” — **Whirlpool Service Manual, Section 5.3**

A successful reset isn’t just about the compressor running. Open the freezer door: the fan should blow cold air. Check the fridge vents: air should feel noticeably cool, not room temp. If you don’t see these signs within 6 hours, you’re dealing with a mechanical or sealed-system issue, not a lockout.

## Common Failure Modes That Prevent a Reset

Understanding why the fridge stopped cooling in the first place helps you decide whether resetting is enough or if a part replacement is needed.

**Power surge lockout.** Many control boards enter a protection mode after a voltage spike. A 15-minute unplug clears this. If the problem returns after every thunderstorm, install a whole-home surge protector on the fridge circuit.

**Defrost system failure.** If the evaporator coils in the freezer are caked in ice, airflow stops and the fridge won’t cool even though the compressor runs fine. Use a flashlight to look through the freezer vents. If you see solid ice blocking the air passage, the defrost system has failed. A reset won’t fix this. You’ll need to manually defrost the freezer (unplug, leave doors open, place towels) and then replace the defrost heater, thermostat, or timer.

**Compressor thermal overload from dirty coils.** The compressor has an internal switch that cuts power at about 250°F. Dirty condenser coils force the compressor to run hotter, cycling it on and off more frequently. After a full cooling failure, that switch may take hours to cool down. Cleaning the coils and leaving the fridge unplugged for 2 hours often gets the compressor running again.

**Failed control board.** If you’ve tried the reset sequence twice, followed the forced reset, and the fridge still shows no signs of life (no display, no fan, no compressor), the main control board is likely dead. This is a $100–200 part and requires a multimeter to confirm. Check our [simple steps to quick fix whirlpool refrigerator compressor reset](https://homeappliancefixing.com/simple-steps-to-quick-fix-whirlpool-refrigerator-compressor-reset/) for board testing procedures.

## When to Stop DIY and Call a Pro

– Compressor is warm but won’t run after a new start relay is installed.
– Fridge trips the breaker immediately after plugging it back in.
– There’s visible burn damage on the control board or wiring.
– The fridge has a sealed-system issue (oil smell, loud gurgling, no cooling despite compressor running).

Sealed-system repairs (compressor replacement, refrigerant recharge) require specialized tools and EPA certification. A DIY attempt can cost you more in parts and wasted refrigerant than a service call.

## FAQ

**How long should I wait for a refrigerator to start cooling after a reset?**
Expect noticeable cooling in the fridge section within 4–6 hours. Full stabilization to 37°F can take up to 24 hours, especially if the fridge was warm when you started.

**Will a refrigerator reset fix a compressor that’s not starting?**
Only if the compressor is being held off by a control board lockout or a temporary thermal overload. A mechanically failed compressor (locked rotor, seized bearings) won’t be fixed by any reset.

**Does resetting a refrigerator delete my settings or error codes?**
A full unplug reset clears temporary error codes but does not erase saved temperature settings. Some diagnostic trouble codes are stored in non-volatile memory and require a service tool to clear.

**Can I reset the refrigerator through the touch panel without unplugging it?**
Some models have a “reset filter” or “control lock” function, but there is no universal touch-panel reset that forces a full power cycle. The unplug method is the only reliable way to reset the main control board.