Samsung Error Code DC: What It Means and How to Fix
The DC error code on a Samsung dishwasher signals a drain clog or drain pump failure. A power reset clears the code temporarily, but if it returns, you need to physically remove the blockage. The steps below walk you through the fix in order of likelihood — start with the reset, then move to the filter and hose.
Check These First Before Digging Deeper
The DC code almost always comes from one of these four causes. Scanning through them quickly saves time:
- Clogged drain filter – food debris blocks water flow
- Kinked or clogged drain hose – a bend or obstruction stops drainage
- Stuck or failed drain pump – the impeller won’t turn, or the motor is seized
- Blocked air gap – the small chrome cylinder on your sink counter has debris inside
If you notice water pooling at the bottom of the dishwasher after a cycle, even without the DC code, that’s the early warning sign. Clean the filter before the error appears.
Quick Fixes to Try (in Order)
Run these steps in sequence. Most DC errors resolve at step 1 or 2.
Step 1: Power Reset the Dishwasher
Unplug the dishwasher (or flip the breaker) for 60 seconds, then restore power. This clears temporary control glitches that can trigger false codes. Open the door, wait ten seconds, then close it.
If the code disappears and the cycle resumes, you’re likely done. Run a short rinse cycle to confirm. If the code returns within one cycle, the problem is a physical blockage — move to step 2.
Step 2: Check the Drain Filter
Pull out the bottom rack. Remove the cylindrical mesh filter and the flat fine filter underneath. Most Samsung models use a twist-lock design — turn counterclockwise to release. Rinse both filters under hot water. Use a toothbrush to dislodge stuck particles, especially around the mesh. Check the sump area below the filter for broken glass or hard food bits. Reinstall both filters securely.
Verification: Run a rinse cycle. The dishwasher should fill, drain, and complete without the code. Open the door during the drain phase — the bottom should be dry within 30 seconds. If the code still appears, move to step 3.
Step 3: Inspect the Drain Hose
Disconnect power, then pull the dishwasher out slightly. Look at the drain hose where it connects to the sink drain or garbage disposal. Straighten any kinks. If the hose connects to a disposal, make sure the knockout plug was removed during installation. To test for a blockage, disconnect the hose from the sink side and blow into it — if it’s hard to blow through, the hose is clogged. Flush it with a garden hose or replace it if it’s heavily blocked.
Step 4: Clean the Air Gap
If you have a small chrome or plastic cylinder on the back of your sink counter, that’s the air gap. Pop the cap off and clean out any debris inside with a pipe cleaner or small brush. Run water through it to confirm it flows freely.
Common Causes and Symptoms at a Glance
| Common Cause | Typical Symptoms | What to Do |
|---|---|---|
| Clogged drain filter | Code appears mid-cycle, water stays in bottom | Remove and clean both filters thoroughly |
| Kinked drain hose | Code appears after installation or repositioning | Straighten hose; replace if permanently bent |
| Failed drain pump | Humming noise but no water movement, code persists | Check pump impeller for debris; replace pump if seized |
| Blocked air gap | Water backs up into sink, code appears on dishwasher | Remove air gap cap and clean out debris |
Use This Quick Self-Check to Decide the Next Step
- Code clears after reset → likely a one-time glitch. Run a rinse cycle and monitor.
- Code returns after draining → filter or drain hose is clogged. Clean both.
- Water pools in the bottom after cleaning → drain pump is likely stuck or failed.
- Dishwasher makes a humming sound but won’t drain → pump motor may be seized.
- Code appears immediately at start of drain → check the drain hose for blockages or kinks.
When the Drain Problem Runs Deeper
If the reset and cleaning steps don’t work, the issue is likely with the drain pump assembly or the control board. Here’s how to narrow it down:
- Drain pump test: Disconnect power, remove the lower access panel, and locate the drain pump (usually near the bottom center). Spin the impeller by hand. If it’s stuck or grinds, replace the pump. If it spins freely, check for debris wrapped around the impeller shaft — a small piece of glass or a toothpick can stop it from turning. Also inspect the pump inlet for any hard objects that could have been sucked in.
- Control board: If the pump spins freely, the drain path is clear, and the code still appears, the control board may have a faulty relay or sensor. This is less common and usually requires a technician.
Escalation signal: If you’ve cleaned the filter, checked the hose, confirmed the pump spins, and the code still returns after a reset, stop troubleshooting. A technician can run a diagnostic test and check the board voltage.
Frequently Asked Questions
Will the code come back after resetting?
Yes, if the drain path is still blocked. The reset only clears the electronic error; the machine will re-detect the problem once it tries to drain again.
Can I run the dishwasher with the DC code?
No. The dishwasher will not continue the cycle until the drain error is resolved. Running it with standing water can damage the pump or cause leaks.
Is the DC code the same on all Samsung dishwashers?
Yes, the DC code means drain clog or drain error across most Samsung dishwasher models. The troubleshooting steps are the same regardless of model year.
For more details on the samsung error code dc fix, see our dedicated guide. If you’re dealing with a different Samsung appliance, the same first-step logic applies: unplug for 60 seconds, then check for physical blockages. For specifics on dishwashers, see our guide on how to reset samsung dishwasher after error code.