Maytag Error Code F5 E3: What It Means and How to Fix
If your Maytag washer flashes F5 E3, the temperature sensor (thermistor) or its wiring circuit has failed. The control board detects an open or shorted condition in the temperature sensing system. Start by unplugging the washer for 5 minutes to reset the board. If the code returns, test the thermistor and wiring before replacing the control board. This guide covers the complete diagnostic and repair process, from initial checks to component replacement, with specific resistance values and decision criteria to help you decide whether to fix it yourself or call a pro.
First Checks That Take 10 Minutes
Run through these checks before buying parts. They can save you time and money.
- Unplug the washer for 5 minutes. A transient fault may clear with a power cycle.
- Inspect the thermistor connector for loose or corroded pins. It’s usually behind the bottom front panel or top control panel.
- Check the drain hose for kinks or clogs. A blocked drain can cause water temperature mismatches that trigger the error.
- Open both water taps fully and verify hot and cold supply hoses aren’t kinked.
- Look for burn marks on the control board, melted connectors, or corrosion on sensor pins.
Branch point: If the code doesn’t return after the power cycle, the repair is done. If it returns, move to the diagnostic steps.
Diagnostic Steps
You’ll need a multimeter set to ohms (Ω) and a screwdriver. Unplug the washer before touching any components. The maytag error code f5 e3 fix relies on accurate testing of the sensor and its circuit.
Locate and Test the Thermistor
Remove the bottom front panel (typically two screws). The thermistor is a small plastic probe with two wires near the bottom of the outer tub. Disconnect the harness and measure resistance at room temperature (around 70 °F). Most thermistors read 10,000–50,000 Ω. Here are typical resistance ranges at different temperatures:
| Water Temperature | Expected Resistance (Ω) |
|---|---|
| 50 °F (cold) | 30,000–50,000 |
| 70 °F (room) | 10,000–15,000 |
| 100 °F (warm) | 5,000–8,000 |
| 140 °F (hot) | 2,000–3,000 |
- If the reading is open (infinite) or shorted (0 Ω): Replace the thermistor. Part costs $10–$30.
- If the reading is within range for the current temperature: The sensor itself is likely fine. Your next step is to check the wiring harness between the thermistor and the control board for breaks or corrosion. If you find a broken wire, repair it. If the wiring is intact, the issue may be a faulty heater relay on the control board.
Check Wiring to the Control Board
Trace the wires from the thermistor connector to the main control board. Look for pinched, cut, or corroded sections, especially where the harness passes through the cabinet frame. Use the multimeter to check continuity between the thermistor connector pin and the corresponding pin on the board connector. No continuity means a broken wire. Gently pull the harness to inspect hidden sections. If you find corrosion, clean the connector pins with electronic contact cleaner and a small brush.
Test the Heater
On models with a heating element, a stuck relay can trigger F5 E3. Locate the heater element (usually at the bottom of the tub). Disconnect the heater wires and measure resistance. A reading of 10–30 Ω is normal. An open (infinite) or shorted (0 Ω) heater needs replacement. Note that a heater failure often causes the error to appear during the wash cycle when the washer tries to heat water.
Replace the Control Board
If the thermistor, wiring, and heater all check out, the control board likely has a faulty relay or sensor input circuit. Replacement boards cost $100–$250. Decision criterion: If your washer is over 7 years old and the board cost exceeds $200, the repair may not be worth it. Factor in the machine’s remaining value before ordering a board. For washers under 5 years old, a board replacement is usually cost-effective.
Verify the Fix
Run a complete cycle with hot water. The washer should fill, heat water, wash, drain, and spin without stopping. If the code does not reappear and the water temperature feels hot (not cold) during the wash, the repair is successful. If the code returns immediately, revisit the wiring and connector pins on the control board.
What If the Code Returns After Replacing the Thermistor?
A common mistake after replacing the thermistor is to assume the job is done. However, if the connector on the control board side has corroded pins, the new sensor will still trigger F5 E3. The symptom: the code returns immediately during the first cycle after replacement. The safest next move is to inspect the connector pins on the board and clean them with electronic contact cleaner before replacing the board. If the pins are badly corroded or the plastic connector is melted, replace the control board. Also double-check that the new thermistor is the correct part for your specific model – some Maytag machines use different sensor curves.
Is It Worth Fixing Yourself
Use this table to decide whether to DIY or call a pro.
| Check | Pass | Fail |
|---|---|---|
| Washer is less than 5 years old | ☐ | ☐ |
| You have a multimeter and know how to use it | ☐ | ☐ |
| You can access the thermistor without removing the drum | ☐ | ☐ |
| Thermistor part costs under $30 and is in stock | ☐ | ☐ |
| You’re willing to spend 1–2 hours on the repair | ☐ | ☐ |
| If the control board is needed, the washer is worth over $300 | ☐ | ☐ |
If you fail two or more checks, consider calling a technician or replacing the washer.
When a Professional Makes Sense
Call a technician if:
- You’ve tested the thermistor, wiring, and heater and found no issues, but the code persists.
- The control board has visible burn marks or melted components.
- You’re not comfortable using a multimeter near live electronics.
- The washer is still under warranty. Contact Maytag or a certified service provider.
Related Error Codes
| Error Code | Meaning | Typical Fix |
|---|---|---|
| F5 E3 | Temperature sensor or heater circuit fault | Test thermistor and wiring; replace sensor or board |
| F3 E2 | Wash motor tachometer fault | Check motor connector, replace control board |
| F6 E2 | Communication error between boards | Inspect ribbon cable, reseat connectors |
For a full list of model-specific codes, see the maytag washer error codes list. If you’re dealing with a similar code, check the maytag error code f3 e2 fix guide.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I run the washer with F5 E3 showing?
No. The washer stops mid-cycle and won’t restart until the fault is resolved. Running it could damage the heater.
Will a power reset fix F5 E3 permanently?
Only if the code was triggered by a temporary glitch. If the sensor or wiring issue is still present, the code returns within a few cycles.
How much does a replacement thermistor cost?
Thermistor parts typically cost $10–$30. Control boards run $100–$250. Professional diagnostic fees add $75–$150.