How to Clean a Maytag Washing Machine Filter: Step-by-Step
# How to Clean a Maytag Washing Machine Filter: Step-by-Step
A clogged filter in your Maytag washer shows up as slow draining, standing water after the spin, or an error code like F7E1. Cleaning it every 3–6 months keeps the pump free from lint, coins, and small clothing debris. The process differs slightly between front-load and top-load models, but the basic steps are the same: locate, drain, remove, scrub, and test. Below is the exact method for each type, along with checkpoints that tell you whether to proceed or stop.
## Find Your Filter Location First
The filter is hidden behind a small access door on the lower front of most front-load Maytags (Bravos, MHW series). On top-load high-efficiency models, it’s either inside the agitator or clipped to the rim of the tub basket. Traditional top-loaders without a removable filter rely on a self-cleaning pump—those models require a monthly tub-clean cycle instead of manual filter access.
| Washer Type | Filter Location | Cleaning Frequency |
|————-|—————-|——————–|
| Front-load | Behind lower access door, inside drain pump housing | Every 3–4 months |
| Top-load HE with agitator filter | Under the agitator cap, cylindrical screen | After every 10–15 loads |
| Top-load HE with tub rim basket | Removable plastic basket at top of tub | Monthly or when visible lint builds up |
> Maytag recommends cleaning the washer filter every three to six months to prevent drainage issues and extend pump life. Failure to do so may void warranty coverage for water damage caused by overflows. — Maytag Owner’s Manual (paraphrased)
## Five Things to Do Before You Open Anything
– [ ] Unplug the washer from the wall outlet.
– [ ] Place a shallow pan and towels under the filter area—expect up to 2 cups of water to spill.
– [ ] Wear rubber gloves; trapped water may contain sharp objects or mold.
– [ ] Confirm filter location using your manual or model diagram.
– [ ] Have a flathead screwdriver and an old toothbrush ready.
These steps prevent electrical shock, floor damage, and unnecessary mess. Skipping the pan is the most common mistake; **never assume the filter housing is dry**.
## Remove and Clean the Front-Load Filter
### Step 1: Drain the Residual Water
Open the lower access door. Pull out the small drain hose (if present) and remove its cap. Let water flow into your pan. Tilt the washer slightly if needed.
**Common mistake:** Over-tilting can crack the plastic housing. Stop once the water stops flowing freely. Expect a small trickle afterward.
**Early checkpoint:** If less than a cup of water drains, the filter is likely packed solid—proceed to Step 2. If more than 3 cups drain, you may have a deeper drainage problem (kinked hose or pump issue). Finish cleaning the filter first, then inspect the drain hose behind the machine.
### Step 2: Remove the Filter Cap
Twist the round cap counterclockwise about a quarter turn. Pull it straight out. If it’s stuck, wrap a flathead screwdriver with tape and gently pry around the edge.
**What to do if it won’t budge:** Spray penetrating oil around the seal and wait 10 minutes. Try again with gentle prying. If it still won’t move, do not force it—the housing may be cracked or the threads seized. Call a technician at this point.
### Step 3: Clean the Filter Screen
Rinse the screen under warm running water. Scrub both sides with an old toothbrush to remove lint and debris. For stubborn buildup, soak in hot water with dish soap for 15 minutes, then scrub again.
**Likely cause for clogs:** Washing heavy-lint items like towels or fleece without pre-washing, or letting small items like baby socks bypass the drum. If you regularly wash pet bedding, the filter will need cleaning monthly.
### Step 4: Inspect the Pump Housing
Shine a flashlight into the opening. Remove visible debris—coins, buttons, hairpins—with long tweezers or a stiff brush. Do not insert metal tools deeper than 1–2 inches to avoid damaging the impeller. Run a wet/dry vacuum nozzle over the opening to pull out loose lint that brushing might miss.
### Step 5: Reassemble and Test
Insert the clean filter, align the tab, and twist clockwise until hand-tight. Reattach the drain hose cap. Close the access door. Plug the washer in and run a short rinse-only cycle.
**Success check:** Water drains within 30–40 seconds on spin. No error codes appear. The filter area stays dry. If water leaks from the cap, remove and re-seat it; the O-ring may have shifted or been dislodged.
## Clean the Filter on a Top-Load Maytag
### Agitator-Mounted Lint Filter
Remove the center cap on the agitator by prying it off. Lift out the cylindrical screen, rinse it thoroughly, and snap it back into place. Check the screen for cracks—a damaged one will let lint bypass directly to the pump.
### Tub Rim Basket
Unclip the plastic basket at the top of the tub. Rinse off accumulated lint and reinstall. If the filter clips are broken, the basket won’t stay seated; replace it to avoid loose lint circulating in the wash.
**Failure mode to watch for:** If the lint filter tears or warps, replace it immediately. Lint will bypass the filter and clog the pump, leading to expensive service calls.
## Signs Your Filter Needs Cleaning Right Now
– Water takes more than 5 minutes to drain after a cycle.
– The washer displays an “LF” (Long Fill) or “F7E1” error code.
– You smell mildew from trapped moisture near the filter area.
– Small puddles form under the front panel after washing.
– Clothes come out soaking wet at the end of a cycle.
If you notice any two of these signs together, clean the filter today. Running another cycle with a clogged filter can stress the drain pump and lead to a $200+ repair.
## Troubleshooting After Cleaning: Drain Still Slow?
1. Check the drain hose for kinks or blockages behind the machine—often the culprit after you’ve cleaned the filter.
2. Run a hot water rinse cycle with a washing machine cleaner (like Affresh) to break up internal soap scum.
3. If the problem persists, the drain pump impeller may be jammed deeper or damaged. Schedule a service visit.
4. Before paying for repairs, confirm your filter light isn’t due for a reset—use our guide on [how to reset filter light on maytag washing machine](https://homeappliancefixing.com/how-to-reset-filter-light-on-maytag-washing-machine/) if your model has that feature.
For long-term maintenance, follow our best practices in [tips for maintaining your maytag washing machine filter](https://homeappliancefixing.com/tips-for-maintaining-your-maytag-washing-machine-filter/).
## Frequently Asked Questions
### My top-loader doesn’t have a removable filter. What now?
Run a tub-clean cycle monthly and inspect the drain hose for lint buildup. If drainage still slows, the self-cleaning pump may need professional service.
### How often should I clean the filter?
Every 3–6 months for front-loaders, or every 1–2 months if you wash heavy-lint items. For top-loaders with a removable lint filter, clean after every 10–15 loads.
### Can I just run a cleaning cycle instead of removing the filter?
No. A cleaning cycle won’t dislodge physical debris trapped inside the filter screen or housing. You must remove and scrub the filter manually.
